The Mountain Village of Sulav
by Jonny Blair
We ended up in the village of Sulav in the Kurdistan part of Iraq. It wasn’t the initial plan to visit Sulav, but we decided to hitch a ride there after exploring the amazing mountain village of Amadiya. We had enough time to have a look around Sulav, but we didn’t stay over. It seems like a cool place, that may one day become a popular tourist sight, here are a few photos and thoughts on what Sulav offers. It sits in the mountains in a dreamy location, and is a tiny village – it seemed to be just based around one main road!
1. Great Mountain Views
You can see Amadiya from here – it sits proudly and loftily on the top of the adjacent mountain top. Sulav offers really great views.
Take your time to scale the edge of the village and admire the views. They are quite special. While you’re pretty close to the Turkey border, pinch yourself and remember you are in Iraq here. You didn’t expect this, did you?
2. “Souvenir Shops”
Well Iraq doesn’t do souvenirs shops the way the rest of the world does, thankfully. But here in Sulav you can pick up a few Kurdish type souvenirs. Keyrings, badges and flags. A few roadside stalls are probably better for local kids though – toys and sweets are sold.
3. Custom Built Waterfall
They kind of have the makings of a custom built flow of water here in a funky garden leading down from a cafe and hotel. Normally fake things like this aren’t my cup of tea – but the truth is we are in a country which has suffered a regime and where war is still going on – the fact they have developed things like a fake waterfall and miniature park are a healthy thing and a credit to the local Kurds.
4. Makeshift Tourist Resort
Yes, there’s a hotel here. We didn’t go inside, but for sure the fact that you can stay over means that this is a place that wants to be touristy.
There’s a market area which includes a shopping area for food and also some restaurants. I didn’t see alcohol in Sulav, but I;d imagine you can get it somewhere.
6. Proximity to Amadiya
Of course the main reason you came to Sulav was either on route to or on the way back from Amadiya – a really special mountain top village. While Sulav is its very very young and tiny brother, you’ll pass through it on route, so you might as well make a stop here.
7. Friendly Locals
We met a load of friendly people there in Sulav. Some wanted to pose for photos with us – they hadn’t seen foreigners before. Or looked as though they hadn’t!
Even the local Kurdish Police wanted to help us as they knew there wasn’t much public transport. But the icing on the cake was meeting Jehat, who gave us a free lift to Qadash, read point 8 below.
8. Hitch-hiking from Amadiya to Sulav then onto Qadash
It was a big surprise to learn that hitch hiking in Iraqi Kurdistan is not only very safe, but sometimes the ONLY WAY to get from place to place. There were certainly no bus routes.
We hitched a ride from Amadiya to Sulav with a couple of locals. Then after touring Sulav for a bit, admiring the views and realising there wasn’t really a bus network here, we flagged down the cars and a local lad called Jehat stopped for us!
And after meeting Jehat and hopping inside, we bid a fond farewell to the tranquil village of Sulav. If you get a chance it would be pretty cool to spend a night here!
You can read more by Jonny here: http://www.dontstopliving.net/.
More by Jonny BlairThings to See and Do in Erbil
Ainkawa: A Christian Suburb of Erbil
Hotel breakfast in Sulaymanihey
New Year’s Eve in Iraq!
Saddam Hussein’s House of Horrors
Creamy Cake Dessert in Duhok
Top 4 Bars in Kurdistan
The Mountain Top Village of Amadiya
10 Things to See and Do in Duhok
A Kurdish Feast in Dohuk
Visa on Arrival at Erbil Airport
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